Why is my car overheating?
What to do in the next two minutes matters more than the diagnosis.
If your temperature gauge climbs into the red, turn the air conditioning off, turn the cabin heater to hot and full fan, and pull over safely as soon as you can. Do not open a hot radiator cap. Common causes are coolant loss, a stuck thermostat, a failed cooling fan, a blocked radiator, a failing water pump or a head gasket. Service One Automotive at Factory 9, 266 Osborne Avenue, Clayton South VIC 3169 can check it. Ring 0434 949 091.
First, the part that saves the engine
The gauge going up is not the damage. Continuing to drive is the damage.
Turn off the air conditioning, because its condenser sits in front of the radiator and adds heat. Turn the cabin heater up to hot with the fan on full, which sounds wrong and is right, because the heater core is a small second radiator and it will pull real heat out of the engine.
Then pull over somewhere safe and switch off. A tow is cheaper than a cylinder head, and it is not close.
Leave the radiator cap alone while the engine is hot. The system is under pressure and opening it releases boiling coolant upward.
Coolant loss
The most common reason, and the one with the widest range of causes. Hoses perish and split. Radiators corrode. Plastic expansion tanks crack along a seam. Water pump seals weep.
Some leaks are obvious as a puddle. Others only show under pressure once the engine is hot, which is why a pressure test is a normal first step.
The thermostat
A thermostat is a valve that stays shut until the engine reaches operating temperature, then opens to let coolant flow to the radiator.
Stuck shut, the coolant never reaches the radiator and the temperature climbs fast, often within a few minutes of starting. It is a small part and one of the cheaper causes on this list.
The cooling fan
At speed there is enough air through the radiator without help. In traffic there is not, and that is the fan's job.
The signature of a fan fault is an engine that runs fine on the Monash and creeps up the moment you are stopped in Springvale Road traffic. If your car only overheats when you are not moving, say so, because it narrows things down immediately.
Water pump and radiator
The water pump circulates the coolant. When its impeller corrodes or its bearing fails, flow drops and the engine cannot shed heat regardless of how much coolant is in it.
Radiators block internally over years, particularly where coolant has been topped up with water rather than replaced. The engine then overheats under load while looking fine at idle.
Head gasket
The expensive one. A failed head gasket can push combustion pressure into the cooling system, which forces coolant out and causes overheating that gets worse quickly.
White smoke from the exhaust that smells sweet, a milky film under the oil cap, coolant disappearing with no visible leak, or bubbling in the expansion tank all point this way.
It is also frequently the result of an earlier overheat rather than the cause of this one, which is the reason the advice at the top of this page is worth following.
Quick answers
Can I just top it up with water and keep going?
Water will get you home in an emergency. It is not coolant: it boils sooner, it does not protect against corrosion, and topping up repeatedly means you are ignoring a leak.
My car overheated once and seems fine now. Should I still get it checked?
Yes. A single overheat can warp a head or weaken a gasket, and the symptoms may not show for weeks. A check now is much cheaper than the alternative.
The gauge is normal but the coolant light came on. What does that mean?
Usually a low level sensor telling you coolant has gone somewhere. The level has dropped before the temperature has responded, which is a useful warning rather than a false alarm.
Need it looked at?
Ring the workshop, or send a booking request.
Open weekends by booking only, at the same rates. The booking has to be confirmed before the day, so ring or text ahead.